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Kentish composite brooch with textile remains

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posted on 2021-10-26, 15:06 authored by Helena HamerowHelena Hamerow
Douglas 1793, 36:Circular fibula [note omitted], inaid with garnets, ivory, and gold, two and not quite three eighths inches in diameter, about one tenth of an inch in thickness. The ground appears to have been soder, composed of silver and some other metallic matter. On handling the gem, it fell to pieces, owing to the perishable substance of the metal, and to the nature of the soil, which at Ash is found to be remarkably incongenital for the preservation of relics. As this fibula might have been mutilated by handling to such a degree as not to admit of a faithful representation, I designed it on the spot, and with the greatest accuracy, while its parts were discernible, I produced the annexed drawing. The metallic substance which composed the ground [†] was worked witrh astonishing neatness. The light circles were very thin plates of gold milled upon the solder; the parallelogramical small stones between the second and third small white circles from the rim were of garnet, on a gold checkered foil [...]; between each garnet a small silver partition. The smal hemispheres appear to have been ivory, and were almost perished; alternatively enchased between the hemispheres were garnets on a chequered foil; on each side of which was a raised ornament on the form of an S. in gold milling; the first light centre circle is a silver projecting umbo, which is set with ivory, and ornamented with a corded ring of the same metal. The drawing the exact size.[...] the acus appears to have been silver [...]. Some small portion of the fine linen cloth was accreted to the solder of the jewel. The fibula was found in the centre of the beads, and appears to have been connected with the said ornament in the female attire. [†] I have analyzed some of the soder, and found it contain a great portion of silver.

History

Grave ID

Guilton Grave XIII

Object ID

GilXIII_brooch

Catalogue Number

Ashmolean 1836 p. 129, 214b

Material

gold, white metal, inlay, garnet, textile, white material (Sonia Hawkes Material Notes; N/A) (Antiquarian Material; garnets, ivory, gold, silver, gem, linen cloth, jewel, metallic matter)

Complete Keyword List (Including Alternatives)

Kentish brooch (Sonia Hawkes Keyword; N/A) (Antiquarian Keyword; fibula)

Status

extant

Location

Ashmolean Museum

Collection

Douglas Collection

Category ID

brooch

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    The Novum Inventorium Sepulchrale

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